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Featuring a mix of marching band uniforms, tailoring, handcrafted quilting and workwear, the collection also includes the introduction of Putting his stamp on all-American minimalism, Simons has introduced a 22-strong team of fresh models to the fold - a stark contrast to the brands last autumn/winter campaign which featured the recognisable faces of Kate Moss, Bella Hadid and Margot Robbie.

It wasn't long ago that Givenchy was easily the most coveted, name-checked brand in rap.

It is so widely reused and parodied for cheap ephemera like t-shirts, tote bags, and phone cases that it has become familiar even to those who couldn’t identify a Joy Division song.

But Simons’ use of the artwork is not so much a comment on the commodification of visual culture and art objects as it is the latest expression of his longstanding relationship with Saville’s work.

LYRICS: "Mami in that Tom Ford, Papi in that Thom Browne / Rick Owens, Raf Simons, boy she got it by the stock."FASHION: Sitting front row at the Raf Simons Fall 2014 show, Rocky was the first person to get his hands on a Sterling Ruby t-shirt from the new collection.

The most recent storm to brew in fashion’s teacup concerns Raf Simons, the outgoing creative director of Christian Dior’s womenswear – and his departure got me thinking about trust, particularly the trust big corporations should have in designers’ ideas, ability and vision.

Dior did trust Simons: his approach wasn’t easy and had variable success, but nevertheless it felt genuine.

Certain album covers make such an impact that they transcend their original context, becoming pop cultural phenomena in their own right.

Guests stepping into last night’s Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2018 show, deep in New York City’s Chinatown, were greeted by one of these designs—the layered lines of Joy Division’s cover, printed on paper lanterns hung from the underside of the Manhattan Bridge.


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